Roofing Options for Historic Buildings

Have you thought much about the choice of roofing for your historic house or building? When it comes time for a new roof, the choice of style or material can make a huge impact on the look of your property.

My first and foremost preference for historic buildings would be if the property happens to retain its original roof, repair it in-kind rather than replacing. Most of the time older roofs can be repaired, unlike asphalt shingle which often must be replaced.



1. Standing Seam Metal

Standing Seam metal is a very durable option for many historic buildings and is on the more affordable side of the range of roofing options. It looks great on farmhouses and agricultural buildings especially. It can be repaired instead of having to be replaced in whole, and should last about 100 years or more if taken care of.

2. Slate

Slate is a very attractive option for historic buildings as long as it is appropriate for the style of the building. It can be costly, but will last for hundreds of years if well maintained and repaired as needed.

3. Terra Cotta Tile

Like slate, Terra Cotta Tile is also extremely durable and will last for hundreds of years if maintained well and repaired in-kind as needed. Most terra cotta roofing has copper trim, wells, gutters, and downspouts to fill gaps and control water flow. Terra Cotta tile is a beautiful option well suited to Spanish, Mediterranean or Mission Revival style buildings and will make a bold impact upon the look of a property.

4. Copper

A copper roof is certainly luxurious and expensive, but has a patina that only gets better with age and can last for hundreds of years if repaired and maintained. Copper can grow thin and suffer from holes due to water damage in spots such as gutters, but many times the holes can be filled or patched with new copper. I especially like the use of copper for accents such as dormer windows, cupolas, and turrets.

5. Wood Shingle

Historically wood shingle roofing is perhaps the most popular early choice of roofing for our Colonial settlers. It works well on older Colonial and Georgian style houses and can last surprisingly longer than you would think, especially if the material used is a wood that is water resistant.

6. Green Roof, anyone?

A Green roof would work well if the roof is flat, especially if there is a bit of a parapet to conceal and contain the vegetation grown on the roof. Buildings suited to this are often civic or commercial buildings located downtown, or Victorian or early-twentieth century storefronts buildings. Occasionally modernist houses possess flat roofs that could possibly be converted into a green roof.

7. Architectural Shingle

Finally, an architectural shingle roof is a nice option that mimics the look of a more expensive slate or tile roof, but is much more affordable for the every day American. It is certainly a step up from the usual asphalt shingle roof and much more appropriate for historic buildings.

Which is your favorite?

Historic House Winter Upkeep 101

For those of us that live in old houses, performing basic maintenance and upkeep can prevent potentially more serious problems and keep your home running efficiently.  During the winter, energy efficiency and proper maintenance is especially important with sensitivity to its historic character-defining features.

Below are some tips for winter upkeep in your historic house:

1. If you must add insulation, add it to the attic and the basement, where most of the house's heat escapes. (Adding blown-in insulation to walls can cause problems in the long run for historic houses).

2. Have your furnace system serviced regularly to make sure it is working efficiently. Change your furnace filters. Bleed radiators and clean forced-air registers.

3. Install a programmable thermostat to save on heating costs when you are not home.

4. Insulate pipes and duct work.

5. Weatherstrip and caulk windows to prevent any air leaks. Repair windows that are not functioning or closing properly. Make sure they are locked tight.

6. Close fireplace flues or dampers when not in use.

7. If windows are proving to be a problem in heat loss, consider adding energy efficient storm windows, which can be just as effective as replacing with new window sashes. Additionally, you can receive a $1,500 tax credit.

8. Use heavy drapes or shutters to keep additional heat from escaping from your windows.

9. Inspect your doors for gaps where air can escape, and seal or fill any holes/gaps. 

10. Use a roof rake to remove snow and ice from your roof.

11. Consider getting an energy audit.



Hopefully these tips are helpful to you! Remember, always retain first, then repair, and if you must replace, replace in-kind. Stay warm, friends!

7 potentially harmful "improvements" to avoid when renovating a historic property

Are you planning a remodel your historic home? Think again when contemplating any of the below actions. They could potentially take away from the historic integrity and character of your home. Furthermore, implementing some of these changes may disqualify you from receiving preservation tax credits, whether they be local, state or federal. I'll do another post introducing preservation tax credits, but for now, reconsider doing any of the following:

1. Replacing original windows
Original windows are one of your home's most important character-defining features. Replacing them destroys the integrity of the historic property and deprives the home of its charm and history. I always prefer the look of original windows as opposed to newer aluminium or vinyl replacements. If replacement is absolutely necessary and there is no option for restoration, replace in-kind with windows of the same material, profile, sash configuration and size.  

2. Incompatible additions
If adding onto your home, make sure that the addition does not detract from or overwhelm the original portion of the house. It should be compatible in style, materials, scale and massing but not so identical that it cannot be distinguished from the original main block.

The addition on the right of this former mill village house is incompatible;
it detracts from the original portion of the mill house which runs the length
of the porch. Rather, the addition should have been constructed onto the rear
of the house. This house is also covered in vinyl siding.

This mill house is located in the same community as the one above, but
retains most of its original materials and character-defining features. A
compatible rear ell addition is constructed onto the back. Notice the difference?

3. Enclosing or screening porches that were originally built to be open
It is tempting to screen-in porches, especially when living in the South, but enclosing porches and screening them obscures the original appearance.

4. Covering original exterior materials in vinyl or synthetic siding
The charm of your home will definitely be impacted if you cover the original clapboards or wood siding with vinyl. Vinyl siding also off-gases and will only last around 20-30 years. Instead, you should seek to preserve the original wood, repair where you can and replace the boards in-kind that are rotted out. Make sure to have a good professional paint job in order to protect exterior siding from the elements.

5. Changing the fenestration patterns of the building to where the original is no longer evident
This means changing the patterns, sizes, and configurations of bays on your home's elevations. This alters the original style, feel and look of the house, impacting its integrity.  

6. Replacing original light fixtures (if the old ones are still in good working order and safe)
This is a personal pet peeve of mine. I love original light fixtures as long as they remain safe to use and the wiring is up to date. Many were fabricated out of copper, wrought iron, steel coated porcelain enamel or other metal that outlasts many modern fixtures. 

7. Adding architectural features or making interior/exterior changes that are not appropriate for the style and age of your home. For example, adding exterior gingerbread trim or decorative Victorian brackets to a modest bungalow or stained-glass windows to a country farmhouse. These features are out of place and out of character with the style of the home and, furthermore, they can present a false sense of history, leading future generations that live in the house to believe the feature had always been there.

Cleaning Historic Exteriors

I love Spring. Along with the season's wonderful blossoms and the gift of new life, it also means time for spring cleaning- not my favorite thing to do.  When it comes to cleaning the exterior of your historic home, proceed with caution.

Here are some tips to think about:

-Take care not to use harsh chemical washes which can damage historic masonry or leave a  permanent discoloration or residue.
-Resist the urge to power wash your home's exterior unless absolutely necessary. This is especially important for exterior materials that are porous in nature. Even then, start at a very low psi level (garden hose equivalent) and then work up to 200-400 psi.
- It is best to clean dirty spots the old fashioned way: with a natural bristle scrub brush and a biodegradable cleaning solution.

Visit here for the Preservation Brief on cleaning historic masonry. To learn more about the dangers of abrasive cleaning to historic properties, read the Preservation Brief here.

Remember, always use the gentlest means possible when cleaning, treating, or repairing a historic property!

Restoration Basics: historic window repair

Want to learn how to restore your home's original wood windows without having to pay a professional?

Then look no further than Rebecca Schwendler's week-long series of posts with the National Trust's PreservationNation blog as she walks us through the process of restoring her own windows from her 1892 Victorian.  She explains how with a little research and hands-on training from your local craftsman, you too can learn the art of window restoration.  I encourage you to check it out!

Have a wonderful Wednesday!